The development of the Parsi communities has always been considered as a high point in Modern Mumbai’s history and culture. The community has been a centre of development for over four centuries now, from Jamshedji Tata to Freddie Mercury.
As I delve in, I have to say that I have truly enjoyed putting this article together. It combines two of my favourite things– Bombay and literature. So, join me as I take you on a virtual heritage walk through three of Mumbai’s most iconic Parsi buildings that have something to do with books or publishing.
Stop 1: The Bombay Samachar building
Every Mumbaikar must have walked past this gorgeous crimson red building at least a hundred times. What lies inside is a publishing company: “The Bombay Samachar” and it is Asia’s oldest newspaper still in circulation.
Built in the 1800s by Fardoonjee Murazban, a journalist, the Bombay Samachar contributed to India’s freedom struggle. Born in Surat into an illustrious family of Parsi priests in 1787, Furdoonjee was trained in Persian and Sanskrit, besides being proficient in Gujarati and Urdu. He first ventured into the world of books as a bookbinder and soon diversified to delivering valuable articles like gold, pearls, diamonds and eventually into money transfer.
About the year 1814, he set up his printing press in the same building and began to experiment with small jobs. This was the very first instance of an Indian setting up shop as an independent printer and publisher – a desi chhapakhana.
By early 1822, plans had progressed enough for Furdoonjee to write to Elphinstone, the Governor of Bombay, seeking formal permission to publish the newspaper. In the 3 months before the launch date of first July, Furdoonjee could acquire nearly a hundred paying customers: 67 Parsis, 14 Englishmen, 8 Hindus and 6 Muslims. Though this might not seem like a huge number now, it was a pretty good start for those early days!
10 years later, in 1832, rumours began to circulate in the market about Furdoonjee’s impending bankruptcy because of his business losses, so he preferred to go into exile. Even after Furdoonjee’s departure, Mumbai Samachar continued to be published regularly. It changed hands many times during the course of the century and also saw a succession of editors. However, it managed to retain its position as the newspaper of choice among Gujarati readers of all communities in Mumbai.
When you are in the area, don’t forget to stop by and take a nice look at this gorgeous building. Even better, if you are around on a weekday, you can pop in to grab a copy of their daily newspaper which costs Rs. x per copy. The Samachar building is now owned by the Cama family; Nilesh Dave is the current editor of the newspaper.
By early 1822, plans had progressed enough for Furdoonjee to write to Elphinstone, the Governor of Bombay, seeking formal permission to publish the newspaper.
Stop 2: The JN Petit Institute Library
This gothic style structure is not only noted for having the largest reading room in Asia but also for maintaining its period architecture. Its interiors house walls adorned in pastel green and intricately stained-glass windows.
Curious to know how this library came into existence? Interestingly, a dozen Parsi students fresh out of Elphinstone college founded the library in 1856. The library consists of books that date back over a 100 years, ancient Zoroastrian manuscripts and a rare copy of the 11th century epic poem Shahnameh by Ferdowsi.
The reading room is always crammed with students working on some extra referencing. A membership here will cost you just Rs 1000 for a whole year and it will allow you to take three books and two magazines for a fortnight.
Stop 3: Durabshaw and Dubash house
These houses obviously bear strong Parsi names and a rich heritage. Both of these buildings in Ballard estate were commissioned together by the British to have similar architecture, with George Wittet designing several landmarks around the area. The family has been involved in the shipping arena since the early 19th century and was later established as a firm in the year 1929 by its founder, Durabshaw b. dubash as DBC sons.The stone structures are still Parsi owned and currently houses the publishing brand, Condé Nast.
Pro Tip:
I’d recommend reading these two books (if not more) to understand the Parsi culture and family dynamics better:
1. Keki N. Daruwalla’s Ancestral affairs
It is 1947 and Saam Bharucha, a Parsee, is in Junagadh as legal adviser to the nawab to help steer the state through the tricky path of accession to either India or Pakistan. As he struggles with the morality of eating the nawab's salt while opposing his wishes to join Pakistan, his life changes dramatically. Away from his wife Zarine, he has an affair with Claire, a British lady, which ends his marriage and creates a rift with his son, Rohinton. Drawing on real-life characters and events, Ancestral Affairs is a family saga with a grand sweep - from the opium wars to the freedom struggle to the Partition of the subcontinent. Seldom have the events of 1947, and their fallout, been described in such humane detail and with such droll humour in Indian fiction.
2. India calling: The memories of Cornelia Sorabji
The autobiography of Cornelia Sorabji, India's first female barrister. Spanning her life from childhood to adulthood, Sorabji discusses her dedication to improving the legal and personal status of orthodox Hindu women. Dealing with colonialism and racial and cultural identity, this book is a significant contribution to the field of women's studies.
*The history of Bombay Samachar has been referenced from an article written by Murali Ranganathan, the author of the book The First World War Adventures of Nariman Karkaria, the only known first person account by an Indian serving in the First world war.
If like me, you decide to explore these spots on foot, here’s a brilliant playlist to give you company LISTEN NOW